Since the introduction of the home serger, users have complained about just how hard it is to thread. With multiple threads, needles, and strange looking gismos, it not only looks complicated, it is. It not only feels like you have to twist and turn just to thread it, it does.

Above the thread cones behind the machine, is a tall wire thread rack. The threads are drawn up and over the rack. They then are threaded through guides, tension assemblies, some more guides, and finally to their deliver device. It is so easy to get the threads tangled, that you really need to be alert.

The mechanism moves the needle down through the fabric and beyond. The thread from the needles is drawn through the fabric. The lower looper picks up the needle threads and moves to the right. The upper looper picks up the needle thread and the lower looper thread and wraps it around the stitch finger. This process is repeated again and again forming overlocking stitches around the edge of the fabric which trail along behind as the seam moves through the sewing machine.

Improper threading creates calamity. Slight variations in threading occur from one serger to another, but the basics are essentially the same. Always read and follow the user manuals instructions precisely.

While there are thousands of different models of serging machines, and each one has its own special way to do the threading process; they are all about the same.

Here are the essentials. First, lift the presser foot. To thread a serger begins at the thread spool. Each cone of thread is properly placed on its spool pin. Draw the thread up and over the thread rack. Draw the thread through each and every thread guide exactly as indicated in your users manual. Caution: threads often get caught on rough spots along the thread line. Double check that the thread flows smoothly off the spool and through the various guides.

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Make sure the presser foot is lifted to release the pressure on the tension assemblies. The threads are then drawn through the tension discs. Most sergers and traditional tension based sergers have front mounted tension assemblies which may protrude from the face of the serger or be enclosed in the serger cover with only the adjusting dials protruding.

Inside the tension assembly are two round metal discs that are designed to press against each other with the thread between them. Make sure the thread has the proper amount of resistance when the presser foot is down.

Lifting the presser foot before you start thread, releases the pressure on the tension assemblies making it easy to thread them. Make sure each thread is drawn through the tension discs and held firmly in position. If the presser foot is down, the thread (can|may|will travel along the edgeof the tension discs instead of moving through them properly. The solution is: lift the presser foot lever when you start threading, and keep it up until you thread the needle.

Following the users guide, continue threading through each and every thread guide. Thread the upper looper first. Then thread the lower looper. Then thread the needles. Unless your users guide says otherwise always thread in this order.

Needles are the last things threaded. To do so make sure to thread all of the guides and take up lever leading to the needles. Since there are often more than one needle, it can be awkward to thread them without use of tweezers of serger needle threader.

Examine the tension with the presser foot still up by slightly tugging on the end of the thread. You should sense very little friction. Now drop the presser foot and check again. You should feel significant drag now. You can double check each thread the same way just to make sure that the thread is properly seated in their appropriate tension assembly.

If a needle breaks, unthread the entire machine, and rethread in proper order. If you need to change colors or thread spools, cut the thread just above the thread cone. After setting the cone in place, tie the new thread to the original thread using a very small knot. Gently advance the set of threads by slowly serging or by rotating the hand wheel until the tie off has passed beyond the thread finger. Take special care when the knot reaches it guide hole. This technique may be used for all or any one of the threads including needles and loopers.

Properly threaded sergers produce chain stitches, however, any errors in threading will result in faulty stitches and broken threads. After you thread the serger, go back and double check the entire thread line making sure that the thread is properly positioned. Look for any snags,wrapping, or twists in the thread. If you find errors, rethread in proper order until the threading is perfect.

We have thus far discussed traditional run of the mill sergers manufactured by most of the sewing machine companies. The things we have discussed here, however, to not apply to the serger technology leader Baby Lock. Baby Lock uses a revolutionary thread management system that eliminates the frustrations over serger threading. Place a quarter inch of looper thread in a small portal and press a lever. The looper is magically threaded. You can thread a Baby Lock in less than sixty seconds. It does not matter what order you thread either.

Threading a Serger/Overlock Machine : - The Right Stitch :

Trimming scissors are good for trimming and clipping seams. The 6-inch length is the easiest to handle and is the most versatile trimming scissor.

Sewing and embroidery scissors have pointed blades and are good for cutting buttonholes, threads, and other small jobs. The 4- and 5-inch lengths are best.

Pinking shears cut a zig-zagged edge and are used for finishing hem edges, seams, etc. They are also great for craft projects such as scrapbooking. Never use them for cutting out the garment. Left-handed models are also available.

Scalloping shears cut a scalloped edge as opposed to a zig-zag edge and can be used for the same purpose as pinking shears. If pinking or scalloping shears become dull, it is best to return them to the manufacturer for sharpening.

The seam ripper is a handy little tool for taking out seams and removing stitches, but must be used carefully so as not to cut the fabric.

The pattern cutting board is a great piece of equipment. It opens flat to be placed on the cutting surface, to enlarge and protect it, and folds up easily for storage. It is made of lightweight cardboard and fabric can be pinned to prevent slipping. There is also a one-inch grid to help on-grain placement of the fabric.

Cutting Tools : - The Right Stitch :

Setting up your Sewing Area

You will find that the two most important features of the sewing area are comfort and convenience.

Comfort because working in a room that is attractive and having all the essential equipment at hand helps to make sewing a truly enjoyable experience. Convenience because, when you have a special sewing area, your work and tools can be left without having to gather up everything each time you interrupt your sewing.

Lighting
Good lighting in the working areas is essential to keep eye fatigue at a minimum. Daylight is the ideal light for sewing, but there are electric light sources which give the type of light needed for working indoors. The "high intensity" lamps and the color balanced fluorescents are brilliant and closely simulate natural sunlight.

Ironing and Pressing Equipment
The ironing board and pressing equipment should be set up near the sewing machine so that pressing is only an arm's length away.

Cutting Surface
Your cutting surface should be high enough for you to work on comfortably while in a standing position. Cutting fabric on the floor or on top of the bed may not be accurate because of the uncomfortable position of your body. A drop-leaf against a window sill opens up to make a great cutting surface.

Full Length Mirror
A full-length mirror should be close by for checking the fit and appearance as you progress.

Notions and Supplies
Notions and supplies should be arranged and stored in an orderly manner to save time when you need them again. See-through plastic boxes can be found in many shapes and sizes. Shoe boxes are great for notions; fabric is more easily stored in blanket boxes. Glass jars with tops painted in bright colors are great for buttons and small notions. Pegs are great for holding spools of thread, and space to hang tools, notes and sketches.

The importance of being able to leave work and equipment undisturbed between working periods cannot be over-emphasized. A lot of your free time can be utilized if you are able to take-up your work where you left off.

A decorative folding screen can be used to shut off your sewing area from the rest of the room.

Welcome to the World of Sewing : - The Right Stitch :

Stitch length, pressure and tension are the three variables that must be adjusted to the specific fabric you are going to use. Refer to the manual for the correct needle size and stitch length. The manual also shows you how to adjust the pressure and tension of your machine.

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Quick change presser feet

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Basic Stitch Lengths most generally used are:

Regulation Stitch – from 12 to 16 stitches per inch, depending on fabric weight. Use the shorter stitch lengths for fine and lightweight fabrics.

Machine-Baste – the longest stitch on your machine. This stitch is used as a temporary stitching, which can be removed easily by cutting the knot and pulling the thread out.

Ease Stitch – about 10 stitches per inch. This stitch is used for easing in fullness evenly.

Reinforcement Stitch – about 20 stitches per inch. This stitch is used for strengthening the stitching line at points of strain.

Pressure adjusted correctly on the presser foot holds the fabric firmly while the machine is stitching. The regulation of the pressure depends on various characteristics of the fabric, such ae you havs fiber content, bulk or weight, texture or finish.

Tension on the thread, properly adjusted, results in a balanced stitch exactly the same on both sides of the fabric. Improper tension can cause puckering or loose stitches. Once it is set properly, tension usually needs no further adjusting.

Once you have learned to handle your machine with the ease of an expert, you may try more complicated sewing techniques, or try some innovations of your own. However, a beginner should confine themself to the more simple basic methods.

Be sure to thread the machine correctly or breakage may occur. Your manual contains a diagram for correct threading of your machine. Cut the thread at an angle to enable it to go through the eye of the needle more easily.

Testing a Seam for Tension and Pressure
From scraps of fabric you are using, cut two strips about eight inches long on the lengthwise grain. Match the lengthwise edges and pin together at each end with the pins at right angles to the lengthwise edge. Place the double layer of fabric under the presser foot, and start stitching while guiding the fabric in front of the presser foot. If fabric does not feed smoothly, but feeds in a jerky manner, pressure on the presser foot is too light. If ripples, pressure on the presser foot is too heavy. If fabric puckers, the thread tension is too tight on both the needle and the bobbin. If stitching is out-of-balance, thread tension is either too loose on one side or too tight on the other side. Make any necessary adjustments and test the seam again.

Using a Sewing Machine : - The Right Stitch :